Monday, October 18, 1999
Sunday Oct 18, 1999 Trip Report
Well, considering that the Saturday weather in Manchester was
absolutely pathetic, Sunday turned out to be lovely. Sunny, cold and
crisp, perfect weather for an afternoon out on the cut.
We left Castlefield around 9:30, not sure when we got to Water's
Meeting if we'd turn down towards the Old No. 3 for a Sunday lunch or
up towards Worsley. The decision was made for us when we couldn't get
near the facilites at Egerton boats to empty the toilet cassette,
which meant a trip to Worsley as the next nearest Elsan site. Not
really a problem, that, since it's always great fun going over the
Barton swing-bridge.
Travelling along the canal from Manchester is always interesting, we
passed the site of the new MetroLink extension, it still makes us
curious as to how they're going to negotiate the right-angle turn
across the Ship Canal at anything other than a dead-slow speed.
Having travelled often on the MetroLink, dead-slow doesn't seem to be
a specialty of theirs, so we plan to take a cruise along that stretch
when they open it just to see what happens.
Looking down on the Ship Canal from the Bridgewater is always
enjoyable, particularly when it's windy. The waves on the Ship Canal
always make me glad that we're not down there in a narrowboat, it
looks as if we'd be swamped in no time. On Sunday, however, both
canals were calm and the Bridgewater was clear as glass. Not that
it's necessarily a Good Thing, as it makes the bottom of the canal and
the massive amounts of rubbish visible. It also makes the huge shoals
of fish visible. I'm always amazed at the variety of fish visible
around the canal from just above Waters Meeting around the turn up to
Worsley. In just a short time we saw several large pike, a number of
immense carp and some schools of roach. I enjoy standing on the step
rail on the side of the boat, my feet only inches above the water as
we cruise along watching the fish.
The stretch from Waters Meeting to Worsley was heavily tinged with the
orange runoff from the mines. Most of the time the water is quite
clear here but there must have been considerable movement of water
down from the L&L towards the Bridgewater to draw the orange water
this far down canal. We passed the back edge of the Trafford Centre,
the domes are clearly visible from the canal but not surprisingly,
there's no provisions for moorings and access to the parking lot from
the canal. Typical.
I always enjoy going over the swing bridge, it seems so unintimidating
now, far different from the first time I crossed it while still
boating single-handed. I have a fear of heights, but after working
hundreds of locks and crossing the Pontcysyllte (I keep a map on the
wall for spelling canal sites, btw) aqueduct, not much else can seem
very overwhelming. As usual, the boatyard past the swing bridge was
full of old boats, any of which I'd happily own if I could have the
pleasure of a private marina full of all the boats I've seen and
wanted over the past two years. Most of the boats in the Worsley
Cruising Club seemed to be closed up for the winter, but several
people were out, readying their boats for a Sunday cruise. It's nice
to see people who boat year-round, Mike and I find that we prefer
winter boating in many ways, it's so lovely and un-crowded but we
dislike seeing no-one else out at all.
The water gets very orange and murky as we approach Worsley, even the
birds carry a rusty tinge including the swans. It's impossible to see
fish in the water, so I usually sit up in the bow and just watch the
world go by until we reach Worsley itself. This trip, with our nice
diesel stove running at low setting, the boat was wonderfully warm
whenever I went inside. It's one of the real pleasures of
cold-weather boating, that heat when you open the doors and step
inside. I could get spoiled like this.
At Worsley, we tied up near the footbridge, with a great view of
Queen Victoria's Boathouse (not, as I would call it.. 'Our Vicky's
Shed'). Instead of a pub lunch, we decided to have something simple,
so it was bacon sandwiches and tea, and a quiet half-hour just
enjoying the scenery and watching the other boats passing by.
Once we'd taken care of the necessities, it was time to consider a
return past the swing bridge before we got stuck on the wrong side of
the canal by the early closing hours for winter cruising. Despite
what Mike claims, the first time I took him out for a cruise on the
canal, we didn't get stuck on the wrong side of the swing bridge on
purpose. Just because he had to get a taxi back into Manchester to
get his car and go home means nothing, I tell you!
The cruise back was as quiet and lovely as the trip out. We passed
the trip boat on its way out with a good number of passengers. It's a
wonderful old boat, the 'Bridgewater Packet Boat' trip boat, with a
massive bow that always looks far wider than a narrowboat should,
especially when it's coming towards you. However, Eamon drives it
with amazing skill. We've watched him negotiate the Castlefield basin
when it's been full of
boats, never even coming close to any of the moored boats, no matter
if he's reversing out or coming back from a trip.
We tied up again in Castlefield, we're leaving there in a day or so,
our visit up to the city over for a while. We love being in the
Castlefield basin though, it's convenient for so many things including
visiting a lot of our friends. Mike and I met at the White Lion, a
pub just up Liverpool Road from the basin, and we spend a lot of time
there with friends. Next week we're off to the wilds of the
Middlewich branch to just enjoy some peace and quiet for a week during
half-term. After that, who can say?
One last note: we're asked very often, since we're a Bridgewater boat
and spend a lot of time in Manchester, if it's dangerous to moor
there. It's a shame that most of the information that people have
about the area comes from outdated sources like the older Nicholson's
guides. Manchester isn't dangerous for boaters. Moorings in
Castlefield are wonderful and quite safe. It does matter where you
moor, of course, since there are a number of night-club style places
built around the basin. In two years of visits there the only problem
with people we've ever had have been from some rather inebriated kids
on their way back to the Youth Hostel. Apparently the boats in the
basin are viewed by many people as some sort of 'window dressing'.
They don't realise, until you point it out at 3am when they've just
finished playing around with your bow-thruster switches, that the boat
is occupied and not a toy.
We've been to Birmingham and London by boat, and in our opinion the
moorings in Manchester compare very well with either of the other two
cities.
-Su and Mike and CC